how many times have i said that a place is one of our all time favorites? probably a lot, but this time i really mean it!
the lago de atitlan is in the guatemalen highlands. it is a lake in the crater of a former volcano that is now ten miles wide and one mile deep! what? i cant even begin to fathom what that eruption was like that created this massive hole! oh my word though, it is so beautiful here! the landscape is really dramatic. the entire lake is enclosed by magnificent mountains and three more volcanoes! it is quite a trek to get down here because you need to weave up and around those mountains to get access to this place.
we are in san pedro which is one of a handful of villages that are located on the lake. this village has changed quite a bit in the last ten years with incoming travelers from all around the world who fall in love and end up staying here. there is still quite a strong indigenous presence with lots of colorfully dressed men, women and children meandering the labrynth of paths that make up this town. the mayans that live here have no history or ever coming to this place. they believe that the lago de atitlan is the birthplace of mayan cosmology. most of their folktales take place right in these very mountains and beaches that i can literally see from this spot at my outdoor internet cafe!
i love watching the women with how they carry their most heavy loads atop their heads as well as carrying a baby or two in their arms as they hike up a hill. and the boys and men with their strap that loops around their forehead allowing them to haul huge loads like 100 lbs of firewood or we even saw one really old man who was carrying a full size wooden bench by the strap on his head!
the kids are freaking adorable in the traditional dress as well. everyone is very friendly, too. it feels like we are welcome. in fact one of our very favorite people here is this old guy up the street from us. by old, i mean he´s at least 200 yrs old! every morning if you walk up the cobblestone street there is this little square hole in an old cement wall where this guy hangs out (literally) with his traditional white shirt and embroidered hat and gives his morning salute to every passerby!! although, dont try to go past ¨buenos dias¨with him because that is the full extent of his spanish ability. many older folks round here speak only mayan.
unfortunately the mayans are really uncomfortable having their pictures taken so i am for the most part unable to share with my friends and family one of the most beautiful and touching aspect of traveling in central america. if you are curious i HIGHLY recommend going to google or yahoo images and typing in mayan women, take a look at lake atitlan too!
the expat vibe here is really chilled out and there is an amazing array of funky little bars (most whom have free documentaries and bonfires nightly)and restaurants all down windy dirt paths lined with flowers and coffee and avocado trees. you can have a delicious choice of international foods from fresh baked tortillas (by our neighbor an old mayan woman), phad thai, samosas, falafel, carrot juice, limeade and then there are lots of women who walk around selling fresh baked carrot bread and brownies too!
and did i mention that we pay $7 a night for our room with a private bathroom?
we may stay here.
